Sapphire, Hardlex or mineral

Which crystal scratches, which chips and why sapphire now reaches watches under €300.

Dial of a Seiko chronograph, close up

The crystal is the transparent cover that protects the dial. The automatic watches in this catalogue use four types, which differ mainly in two ways: how easily they scratch and how they react to a knock.

Sapphire

It is synthetic sapphire, the same material as the jewels in the movement. It reaches 9 out of 10 on the Mohs hardness scale: only diamond scratches it, so brushing against keys, tables or a belt buckle leaves no mark. On the other hand it is more rigid, and a sharp blow on the edge can chip it. Many have an anti-reflective coating that improves legibility in the sun.

Hardlex

Seiko’s name for its hardened mineral glass. It is harder than ordinary mineral glass and more flexible than sapphire: it scratches with use but handles knocks better. It is what Seikos under €700 use, from the 5 Sports to the Prospex Turtle.

Mineral

Toughened glass. It is the cheapest to make and replace, and the first to scratch. Many entry-level watches use it, such as the Orient Bambino or the Citizen Promaster Diver.

Acrylic

Clear plastic, the crystal of older watches and of some current ones such as the Vostok Amphibia or the Swatch Sistem51. It scratches easily, but it does not shatter, and light scratches can be polished out at home with a little paste. It is light and allows very domed shapes.

In the catalogue

CrystalWatchesLeast expensive
Sapphire8Citizen Tsuyosa, €240–275
Hardlex8Seiko 5 Sports Field, €275–310
Mineral4Invicta Pro Diver, €115–140

To see only the watches that have it, there is a list of watches with sapphire crystal and another of sapphire automatics under €600.

Which to choose

Frequently asked questions

Can sapphire break?

Yes. It is very hard, so it barely scratches, but it is also less flexible: a sharp blow on the edge against a hard surface can chip it. It is rare, but it happens.

Is sapphire worth paying more for?

On an everyday watch, usually yes: a scratched crystal is noticeable every time you check the time. On a watch you wear rarely, or a diver that will take knocks, Hardlex is a reasonable choice.

Can a mineral crystal be replaced with sapphire?

On many popular models, such as the Seiko 5 Sports or the Orient Mako, compatible sapphire crystals exist and a watchmaker can fit one. The water resistance must be tested afterwards.

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